An RV parked outdoors through a Jacksonville summer is dealing with four things at once: heat that turns a closed coach into an oven, humidity that never really drops, ultraviolet light that degrades every exposed surface, and an afternoon thunderstorm most days from June through September. On top of that, hurricane season runs June 1 through November 30.

None of the prep below is difficult. Skipping it is how people open the door in October and find mildew on the ceiling.

Start with moisture โ€” it's the one that does real damage

Heat you can't do much about. Humidity you can. A sealed RV sitting in Florida becomes a condensation chamber: warm damp air gets in, cools overnight against interior surfaces, and leaves water behind. Do this every time:

  • Empty every tank. Fresh, grey, and black, fully drained and flushed. Standing water in a black tank through August is exactly as bad as it sounds.
  • Run the fridge dry and prop the door. A closed refrigerator with a damp interior grows mold within weeks.
  • Put desiccant containers in the living area and in any closed cabinet or wardrobe. Refillable tubs work; so do the disposable ones. Check them when you check on the rig.
  • Crack the roof vents under their covers if your rig has vent covers that keep rain out. Airflow beats a sealed box every time.
  • Take soft goods home. Bedding, towels, cushions you can remove, anything fabric that will hold moisture.

Walk the roof before it sits

Every summer here is a stress test for sealant. Check the caulking around roof vents, the A/C shroud, skylights, antenna bases, and the front and rear caps. A hairline crack that leaks nothing in dry weather will soak a ceiling panel after a month of daily storms, and by the time you notice it from inside, the damage is in the structure rather than the surface.

Reseal anything that looks chalky, cracked, or lifted. It's an afternoon and a tube of self-leveling sealant, and it's the single highest-return item on this list.

Tires and UV

Florida sun kills RV tires long before the tread runs out โ€” sidewalls check and crack from UV exposure, not from mileage. Inflate to the pressure on the sidewall before you park it, cover the tires if you can, and try to park so they're not taking full afternoon sun.

If the rig is going to sit for months, move it a few feet occasionally so the same contact patch isn't loaded the entire time. And while you're down there, look at the sidewall date codes โ€” tires age out on a calendar, not an odometer.

Same logic applies to everything else exposed: decals, awning fabric, and rubber seals all degrade under UV. A good cover pays for itself, provided it's a fitted breathable cover rather than a tarp, which traps moisture against the surface and does more harm than sun would have.

Batteries and propane

Heat is brutal on lead-acid batteries. Either disconnect them and store them somewhere cool, or leave them on a proper maintainer. A battery left connected to parasitic draws through a Florida summer will discharge, sulfate, and be dead by fall.

Close the propane valves at the tank. Check the regulator and the lines for cracking while you're there.

Pests

Warm, dark, undisturbed, and occasionally containing crumbs โ€” an RV in storage is close to ideal habitat. Remove every food item, including the pantry things you'll swear are sealed. Wipe down surfaces. Steel wool in obvious entry points around plumbing and wiring penetrations, and a few traps inside, handles most of it. Leave cabinets and drawers open so nothing is nesting somewhere you can't see.

Fuel and the engine

For a motorhome sitting more than a couple of months: fill the tank to reduce condensation space, add stabilizer, and run the engine long enough to circulate it through the fuel system. Change the oil before storage rather than after โ€” used oil is acidic and you don't want it sitting in the engine for a season. Generators want the same treatment, and a monthly exercise run if you can manage it.

Hurricane season is part of the plan

June 1 through November 30. Two things matter for a stored rig:

  • Nothing loose on the outside. Awnings fully retracted and secured, satellite dishes and antennas down, chairs and mats stowed, nothing on the roof that can become a projectile.
  • Know whether you'd move it, and where. Decide before a storm is named, not while you're watching a cone. If your plan involves relocating the rig, know the route and know that everyone else will be on it.

Also worth confirming what your insurance actually covers for a stored vehicle in a named storm. Storage facilities aren't responsible for damage to vehicles or their contents โ€” ours included โ€” so your policy is the whole safety net.

Check on it once a month

Twenty minutes, once a month, catches nearly everything before it becomes expensive. Open it up and let the air move. Check the desiccant. Look at the ceiling for stains. Check tire pressure. Run the generator. Look for droppings. Confirm nothing has started leaking since the last visit.

This is a large part of why 24/7 gate access matters more than a slightly cheaper monthly rate โ€” storage you can only reach during business hours is storage you'll check on half as often.

Where we come in

We're an outdoor gated lot at 13967 Duval Road on Jacksonville's Northside, month-to-month, with your own access code so a monthly check-in doesn't require anybody's permission. Rates run $100 to $150 by length, with daily and weekly options for short stays.

Details on the RV storage page. If a boat is going into storage for the summer too, the boat storage page covers the equivalent prep for hulls and trailers.

Need somewhere to park it for the season?

Gated, 24/7 access, month-to-month โ€” and 50% off your first month.

See RV storage โ†’ Call (904) 304-8908